Caring For Your Stone

Cleaning Your Stone

Deep cleaning of grout and tile

State of the art equipment and a revolutionary process restores the clean, crisp natural beauty of your tile and grout, safely and gently. This process should be done every two to three years; depending on traffic.  We also recommend grout be sealed at the time of cleaning to prolong the life and cleanliness of the grout.

Cleaning Your Granite and Engineered Stone

Do not use general purpose cleaners on your granite or you may damage your stone or the sealant. We have a full-line of cleaners, some with antimicrobial protection that we recommend for cleaning granite. These cleaners are developed specifically for natural stone and tile care. Their unique blend of neutral cleaning agents are gentle to your stone.

Cleaning Marble, Limestone and Travertine

Many common foods and drinks contain acids that may etch or dull the stone surface. Also, some toiletries (e.g. perfume, toothpaste, and mouthwash) may damage the stone surface or degrade the sealer. Do not use general purpose or soft scrub cleansers. Gramar Stone Center, Inc and industry professionals, recommend a pH balanced cleaner. Additionally, a cleaner that also contains a sealer will help to extend the life of your stone.

At home maintenance guidelines for all types of natural stone surfaces

Marble, granite, travertine or natural stone shower:

Daily: Wipe shower walls and floor down with a squeegee to remove most soap scum and water.  Dry any areas where water might puddle with a towel.

Weekly: Use a squeegee to wipe down entire shower. Next, spray disinfecting shower cleaner onto walls (one wall at a time) and wipe dry with a towel.  Repeat process for all walls and floor.

Yearly or bi-yearly: Once natural stone tiles loose luster, become pitted, have permanent water streaks or look worn, it is time to call a professionally trained stone technician restore your shower back to its’ original condition.

Marble, granite, travertine or natural stone floor:

Weekly: Once a week, your natural stone floor should be dust mopped with a cotton dust mop (12” - 18” wide head).  In week 2, your natural stone floor should be mopped with a cotton string mop and a stone soap solution consisting of 2 gallons of warm clean water and 6 - 8 oz of stone soap (pH7).  Mop floor with a damp (well wrung out) mop of this solution. Be careful not to subject floor to too much water.  Allow floor to air dry.

Yearly or bi-yearly: When floor becomes dull, looses its luster, numerous scratches appear and water spotting occurs, it is time to call a professionally trained stone technicians to restore your floor back to original condition.

Marble, granite or natural stone countertops:

Daily: Wipe off debris with a dry paper towel.  After large debris has been removed wipe down entire countertop with either a 1.) Natural stone, anti-bacterial safe wipe (or) 2.) Natural stone soap and a clean damp paper towel. 
Note: All countertops should be cleaned with a neutral stone soap (pH7) to prevent long term damage to your stone investment.

Every 2 to 3 years (granite countertops): Countertops should be re-sealed to guard against staining, create easier wipe-up, strengthen countertops and preserve their natural beauty.

Yearly or bi-yearly (marble, limestone or travertine countertops): As countertops loose their luster, become water and chemically spotted a professionally trained stone technician needs to be called in to restore countertop back to original condition.

Tile and grout (ceramic, porcelain and most other man made materials):

A couple times weekly: Sweep floor free of debris (dirt, dust and sand) into dustpan.

Weekly: Mop floor with a damp (not too wet) cotton string type mop combined with a high alkaline cleaner and hot water.  Follow instructions on alkaline cleaner for proper mixing ratio.  Change mop water as soon as it appears to have a brown color.

Yearly or bi-yearly: If grout on floor begins to become permanently discolored, it is time to call a professionally trained stone technician to have it professionally cleaned to restore grout and tile back to original condition.

Natural Stone Stains Removal

Spills and Stains

Blot the spill with a paper towel immediately. Don't wipe the area, it will spread the spill. Flush the area with plain water and mild soap and rinse several times. Dry the area thoroughly with a soft cloth. Repeat as necessary. If the stain remains, refer to the section in this brochure on stain removal.

Stain Removal

Identifying the type of stain on the stone surface is the key to removing it. If you don't know what caused the stain, play detective. Where is the stain located? Is it near a plant, a food service area, an area where cosmetics are used? What color is it? What is the shape or pattern? What goes on in the area around the stain? Surface stains can often be removed by cleaning with an appropriate cleaning product or household chemical. Deep-seated or stubborn stains may require using a poultice or calling in a professional. The following sections describe the types of stains that you may have to deal with and appropriate household chemicals to use and how to prepare and apply a poultice to remove the stain.

Types of Stains and First Step Cleaning Actions

OIL-BASED

(grease, tar, cooking oil, milk, cosmetics)
An oil-based stain will darken the stone and normally must be chemically dissolved so the source of the stain can be flushed or rinsed away. Clean gently with a soft, liquid cleanser with bleach OR household detergent OR ammonia OR mineral spirits OR acetone.

ORGANIC

(coffee, tea, fruit, tobacco, paper, food, urine, leaves, bark, bird droppings) May cause a pinkish-brown stain and may disappear after the source of the stain has been removed. Outdoors, with the sources removed, normal sun and rain action will generally bleach out the stains. Indoors, clean with12% hydrogen peroxide (hair bleaching strength) and a few drops of ammonia.

METAL

(iron, rust, copper, bronze)
Iron or rust stains are orange to brown in color and follow the shape of the staining object such as nails, bolts, screws, cans, flower pots, metal furniture. Copper and bronze stains appear as green or muddy-brown and result from the action of moisture on nearby or embedded bronze, copper or brass items. Metal stains must be removed with a poultice.(See section on Making & Using a Poultice) Deep-seated, rusty stains are extremely difficult to remove and the stone may be permanently stained.

BIOLOGICAL

(algae, mildew, lichens, moss, fungi)
Clean with diluted (1/2 cup in a gallon of water) ammonia OR bleach OR hydrogen peroxide. DO NOT MIX BLEACH ANDAMMONIA! THIS COMBINATION CREATES A TOXIC AND LETHAL GAS!

INK

(magic marker, pen, ink)
Clean with bleach or hydrogen peroxide (light colored stone only!) or lacquer thinner or acetone (dark stones only!)

PAINT

Small amounts can be removed with lacquer thinner or scraped off carefully with a razorblade. Heavy paint coverage should be removed only with a commercial "heavy liquid" paint stripper available from hardware stores and paint centers. These strippers normally contain caustic soda or lye. Do not use acids or flame tools to strip paint from stone. Paint strippers can etch the surface of the stone; re-polishing may be necessary. Follow the manufacturer's directions for use of these products, taking care to flush the area thoroughly with clean water. Protect yourself with rubber gloves and eye protection, and work in a well-ventilated area. Use only wood or plastic scrapers for removing the sludge and curdled paint. Normally, latex and acrylic paints will not cause staining. Oil-based paints, linseed oil, putty, caulks and sealants may cause oily stains. Refer to the section on oil-based stains.

WATER SPOTS AND RINGS

(surface accumulation of hard water)
Buff with dry 0000 steel wool.

FIRE AND SMOKE DAMAGE

Older stones and smoke or fire stained fireplaces may require a thorough cleaning to restore their original appearance. Commercially available "smoke removers" may save time and effort.

ETCH MARKS

Etch marks are caused by acids left on the surface of the stone. Some materials will etch the finish but not leave a stain. Others will both etch and stain. Once the stain has been removed, wet the surface with clear water and sprinkle on marble polishing powder, available from a hardware or lapidary store, or your local stone dealer. Rub the powder onto the stone with a damp cloth or by using a buffing pad with a low-speed power drill. Continue buffing until the etch mark disappears and the marble surface shines. Contact your stone dealer or call a professional stone restorer for refinishing or re-polishing etched areas that you cannot remove.

EFFLORESCENCE

Efflorescence is a white powder that may appear on the surface of the stone. It is caused by water carrying mineral salts from below the surface of the stone rising through the stone and evaporating. When the water evaporates, it leaves the powdery substance. If the installation is new, dust mop or vacuum the powder. You may have to do this several times as the stone dries out. Do not use water to remove the powder; it will only temporarily disappear. If the problem persists, contact your installer to help identify and remove the cause of the moisture.

SCRATCHES AND NICKS

Slight surface scratches may be buffed with dry 0000 steel wool. Deeper scratches and nicks in the surface of the stone should be repaired and re-polished by a professional.

Poultices

Making and Using a Poultice

A poultice is a liquid cleaner or chemical mixed with a white absorbent material to form a paste about the consistency of peanut butter. The poultice is spread over the stained area to a thickness of about 1/4 to 1/2 inch with a wood or plastic spatula, covered with plastic and left to work for 24 to 48 hours. The liquid cleaner or chemical will draw out the stain into the absorbent material. Poultice procedures may have to be repeated to thoroughly remove a stain, but some stains may never be completely removed.

Poultice Materials

Poultice materials include kaolin, fuller's earth, whiting, diatomaceous earth, powdered chalk, white molding plaster or talc. Approximately one pound of prepared poultice material will cover one square foot. Do not use whiting or iron-type clays such as fuller's earth with acid chemicals. The reaction will cancel the effect of the poultice. A poultice can also be prepared using white cotton balls, whitepaper towels or gauze pads.

Cleaning Agents or Chemicals

OIL-BASED STAINS

Poultice with baking soda and water OR one of the powdered poultice materials and mineral spirits.

ORGANIC STAINS

Poultice with one of the powdered poultice materials and 12% hydrogen peroxide solution (hair bleaching strength) OR use acetone instead of the hydrogen peroxide.

IRON STAINS

Poultice with diatomaceous earth and a commercially available rust remover. Rust stains are particularly difficult to remove. You may need to call a professional.

COPPER STAINS

Poultice with one of the powdered poultice materials and ammonia. These stains are difficult to remove. You may need to call a professional.

BIOLOGICAL STAINS

Poultice with dilute ammonia OR bleach OR hydrogen peroxide. DO NOT MIX AMMO-NIA AND BLEACH! THIS COMBINATIONCREATES A TOXIC AND LETHAL GAS!

Applying the Poultice

Prepare the poultice. If using powder, mix the cleaning agent or chemical to a thick paste the consistency of peanut butter. If using paper, soak in the chemical and let drain. Don't let the liquid drip.
Wet the stained area with distilled water.
Apply the poultice to the stained area about1/4 to 1/2 inch thick and extend the poultice beyond the stained area by about one inch. Use a wood or plastic scraper to spread the poultice evenly.
Cover the poultice with plastic and tape the edges to seal it.
Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly, usually about 24 to 48 hours. The drying process is what pulls the stain out of the stone and into the poultice material. After about 24 hours, remove the plastic and allow the poultice to dry.
Remove the poultice from the stain. Rinse with distilled water and buff dry with a soft cloth. Use the wood or plastic scraper if necessary.
Repeat the poultice application if the stain is not removed. It may take up to five applications for difficult stains.
If the surface is etched by the chemical, apply polishing powder and buff with burlap or felt buffing pad to restore the surface.

Sealing Your Stone

Sealing your Stone

Natural stone has been formed over millions of years, but improper care can ruin nature's beauty. Although we usually think of natural and engineered stones as "hard", they are semi-porous materials that can absorb spills and stains if left untreated. Sealing your stone with a quality impregnating sealer will help prevent spills from damaging your investment. There is a wide variety of sealers available, so you need to select one for your specific needs and type of natural stone. Impregnating sealers, with new, advanced chemical technology, penetrate the stone and help protect it against water and oil-based stains

Why is Sealing Important?

  • Improves Resistance to Stains
  • Repels Water and Oil
  • Extends Life of the Stone
  • Strengthens the Stone
  • Guards Against Water Spotting
  • Protects Against UV Light
  • Preserves Original Color
  • Revitalizes Luster

MIA Statement of Position On Sealing Natural Stone Countertops

Most granite countertops do not need to be sealed. Before 1995 there were very few quality penetrating sealers on the market and there were very few cases of staining. Both prior to and after the availability of penetrating sealers, no cases of food poisoning, radon, or food preparation issues associated with treated or untreated granites have been reported. If a homeowner cleans their countertops after each meal, they will rarely, if ever, have staining or cleanability issues with granite. This being said, many granite countertops receive additional benefit from being sealed. That benefit is the further reduction of moisture migration into an already moisture resistant surface.

Should natural stone counters be sealed? In many cases it makes sense to seal marble and granite countertops with a quality sealer. The product should have a life expectancy of ten to fifteen years and be of an oliophobic (resistant to water and oil based stains) nature. Once properly sealed, the stone will be more resistant against everyday dirt and spills.

In today's natural stone industry, many species of granite receive a resin treatment at the factory where the blocks of granite are cut into slabs and then polished. The treatment is used to fill micro-fissures, indentations and other minor characteristics that are found in many natural stones. The reason for the resin treatment is to address what most consumers consider as imperfections, but in reality are "birth marks". The consuming public gravitates to perfection, defined as no "birth marks," and so the marble and granite industry tries to fulfill the desire. Both resined as well as unresined slabs will outlast most of our lifetimes. Granite should, and in most cases will, be the last countertop surface a person will buy, providing a strong return on investment. The bottom line: Sealing resin treated countertops may increase the resistance of the already resistant nature of stone (adopted 11/8/06).

www.marble-institute.com

Maintaining Your Stone

Polishing and removal of scratches on marble foyer floors

Floor will be honed to remove scratches and then polished to a highly reflective shine.

Replace and fix epoxy seams on marble and granite countertops

Old and damaged epoxy will be removed.  New color matched epoxy will be reapplied.

Removal of lippage on a stone floor

If a stone floor has tiles that are uneven (lippage), this process will create an entirely flat surface. There will be no lippage after this process is completed.  A flat floor is easier to maintain because there are no lips where dirt can accumulate.  A completely flat floor eliminates all unevenness thus creating a safer floor and giving the floor the illusion of being monolithic.

 

 

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